Paracas Peninsula, Peru
I asked Jose if we could see the famous “Calendabra of the Andes” up-close. “Unfortunately,” he replied, “the ministry of tourism prohibits us from taking tourists to the site. The geoglyph is fragile and can only be observed from a boat.” Jose’s quick response tells me that I am not the first person to ask that question.
The Calendabra we were talking about is an immense 2,500 years old geoglyph etched 0.60 m (2 feet) deep into the petrified sand on the Paracas Peninsula along the Peruvian coast. Because it was created on a sloped hill facing the Pacific Ocean, the geoglyph can be seen from 19 km (12 mi) offshore, but the reason for it’s creation is still a mystery.
There are many theories, of course. Some say it was meant as a beacon to sailors when far from shore while others believe it is a lightning rod for the god Viracocha, a god much worshipped by the Paracas people who are believed to be responsible for creating this work of art. Some archeologists see a symbolized trident in the Calendabra while others see the geoglyph resemble a Jimsonweed (Datura stramonium), a plant that causes hallucinations and is known for its medicinal properties. Personally, I think it looks very much like a three-armed candlestick. Why can’t we leave it at that?
It is beautiful where the desert meet the ocean. Sea birds nest in these cliffs at the edge of the Paracas Peninsula.
The fact that the geoglyph can still be seen and admired almost 2,500 years after its creation is, in my opinion, nothing short of a miracle. How can a figure that is etched in sand last this long? “The last time it rained was in 1998” Jose said, “the entire west coast of Peru is a desert.” Ok, I can see how a geoglyph can survive a long time in a climate like this. After all, the Nazca Lines, which are a mere 200 km (130 mi) from this site, are still clearly visible, too.
Local fishermen pulling in their harvest not far from the Candelabra.
The greatest danger to the Peruvian geoglyphs’ survival are neither rain nor wind (even though a changing climate might cause them to be washed away, eventually). The greatest treat is vandalism. Despite being located inside a National Park Reserve, the Calendabra can easily be reached, especially by ATV, 4x4 trucks, and dirt bikes – and they cause much damage. Even hikers just walking through the site leave footprints. Most often, the vandalism is caused by young people who are either frustrated with life, bored out of their minds or whose playfulness is seriously misguided. Even Greenpeace, an organization that should know better than to trample across sacred sites, have been caught damaging local geoglyphs.
A closeup view of the Candelabra (…made possible by my powerful zoom lens) reveals animal tracks and footprint damage from uninvited visitors.
I have come to see the Calendabra several times now, always a few years apart. Luckily, the geoglyph always looks the same. However, now that I know that vandalism occurs on a more or less frequent basis, and the monument is being repaired as soon as it is damaged, I am no longer surprised by its flawless appearance. Fortunately, for visitors, the mystery of the Candelabra’s purpose and longevity, remains.
More pictures can be seen on this website on the page “Gallery Archive - Central & South Amercia III”.
~ RT