Take a Second Look

During the height of the Atlantic Slave Trade 200 to 300 years ago, a slave master used to live in this house just a short distance away from the Atlantic shore near Pedakondji Village in the west African country of Togo.  The slaves were crowded under the floor boards in a dark dungeon with a low ceiling. They spent between two and three days in the dungeon before being walked in chains to the waiting slave ship nearby.

The Freedom Statue on Goree Island near Dakar, Senegal.

From the 15th to thee 19th century, Goree Island was the largest slave trading center on the African coast.

Known as The Point Of No Return monument on the Atlantic coast in Ouidah, Benin, this memorial marks the location where thousands of purchased and kidnapped slaves left the African continent for the long journey to the New World. 

A yoke is a wooden beam normally used to tie two oxen together. While being transported to the ships, slaves were yoked together to prevent escape. This picture was taken at the slave museum in Luanda, Angola.

Diagram of a slave ship from the Atlantic slave trade. (From the Abstract of Evidence delivered before a select committee of the British House of Commons in 1790 and 1791.) The ships could hold up to 460 slaves and took, depending on the weather, between 6 weeks and 6 months to reach the New World.

A monument to slavery at the entrance to Juffureh Village, The Gambia. The globe as the stature's head represents the sad reality that slavery has been and still is a global problem.

Rural shoreline scene, Gambia River near Albreda, The Gambia.

The chief of Juffureh village is one of only two female chiefs is The Gambia. Aja Tako Taal became chief in 1994. At her current age of 76 years she still is very much in charge of her chiefdom. One important role of the chief is to settle grievances among the village inhabitants.   

Rinsing off the salt from his body, this salt digger in Pink Lake near Dakar, Senegal is ready to unload his salt harvest.

At the children's activity center, Juffureh, The Gambia.

Pico Iyer writes: "Travel spins us round in two ways at once: It shows us the sights and values and issues that we might ordinarily ignore; but it also, and more deeply, shows us all the parts of ourselves that might otherwise grow rusty. For in traveling to a truly foreign place, we inevitably travel to moods and states of mind and hidden inward passages that we’d otherwise seldom have cause to visit."

To me, Africa is such a "truly foreign place". It is a place of contrasts and contradictions. Just when you catch your breath after a truly disturbing sight, you notice beauty and grace beyond description. Africa can leave you breathless and will leave impressions on your heart that cannot be erased.

... near Kunta Kinteh Island.

The magnificent baobab tree welcomes visitors to the Gambian village of Albreda. The village used to be a point of departure for many captured slaves before they were transported to the New World. A monument to the slave trade (a statue with raised arms and broken chains) with the words "Never Again" can be seen to the right of the tree.

Juffureh, The Gambia

At the children's activity center, Juffureh, The Gambia

Bright and determined, the children of Juffureh deserve better than to be taught how to beg for money.

Located in the middle of the Gambia River at equal distance from both shores, Kunta Kinteh Island was a strategic piece of real estate during colonial times. Whoever owned the island had complete control over the upriver territories and access to Africa's interior from the Atlantic Ocean. The village of Juffureh is only three km across the water from Kunta Kinteh Island.

Kunta Kinteh Island in the Gambia River used to be much bigger, however storms and tidal currents have eroded much of the island. Efforts are under way to prevent any further erosion of the tiny island's landmass.

First constructed by the Portuguese in 1456, the fort of Kunta Kinteh Island changed hands many times during subsequent centuries. One important role of the fort was the control and facilitation of the slave trade and traded commodities. Located only 50 km inland from the mouth of the Gambia River, the fort was seen as the gateway to Africa's interior. 

A dancer near Dakar, Senegal performs hair-singeing acts.

The canopy walkway in Kakum National Park in Ghana was the first of such walkways in Africa. Constructed by a team of 9 people (6 Canadians, 3 Ghanaians) the walkway consists of 7 bridges between giant trees with wooden platforms. It takes between 30 and 45 minutes to complete the 330 m (1,080 ft) long walkway.

The semi-deciduous virgin forest in the Kakum National Park is breathtakingly beautiful. The sight of giant "kyenkyen" trees combined with the sounds of monkeys and the typical smell of a moist tropical forest create an mind-image of spectacular beauty. Photos do not do justice to this special place. A 40 m (131 ft) high canopy walkway allows the visitor to fully explore this park's natural beauty.

Traversing the canopy walkway at the Kakum National Park in Ghana can be scary. Consisting of supporting ropes, cables and narrow wooden planks, the walkway wobbles and sways to a frightening degree. The ropes supporting two of the seven bridges are especially "loose", making a 40 m (130 ft) plunge down to the forest floor seem like a real possibility. Did I mention I am afraid of heights?

This is not the natural color of the Pra River in western Ghana. Contaminated and poisoned by illegal ("artisan") gold mining in the country's interior, the river sediments are already heavily laden with metallic mercury. The introduction of mercury into the food chain has serious long term environmental consequences. The mining is carried out by local Ghanaians and illegal Chinese immigrants.

Pra River near Beposo, western Ghana

A sail boat approaches safe harbor on a windy day in Baia Das Gatas on Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands.

Flying fish break through the surface and glide across the water as far as 400 m (1,300 ft) to escape predators. They can stay in the air for up to 45 seconds. At home in the world's tropical and sub-tropical regions, flying fish are desired as a delicacy and offered in many restaurants. 

Sao Vicente Island, Cape Verde

In a moving welcoming ceremony during which alcohol (Henkes' Schnapps - product of Holland) is poured out over the sacred ground of the Glidji's Sacred Forest, this voodoo priest and five of his elders bless the attending guests, wishing them good fortune and health.

Glidji Sacred Forest, Togo

Same priest, same location as in the previous picture.

Do you see the priest's helper (elder?) behind the voodoo priest performing the welcoming ceremony? He is checking his cell phone messages while welcoming his guests. We dropped from 6 priests and elders five years ago to one priest and half a helper. After all, these ceremonies get boring when you have to perform them for tourists all the time. Also, news flash: the obsession with cellphones and texting is not just a western phenomenon.

Glidji Sacred Forest, Togo

Pedakondji Village, Togo

Many from the local fishing village came out to pull a giant fishing net to shore. Even moms with their babies on their backs came to help.

Pedakondji Village, Atlantic coast, Togo

Pulling in a giant fishing net can be hilarious or a perfect opportunity for an impromptu meditation.

Pedakondji Village, Atlantic Coast, Togo

A huge fishing net stretched far out to sea is being pulled in by volunteers from the Pedakondji Village in Togo.

Pedakondji Village, Togo

Pedakondji Village, Togo

Visitors with white skin are still a novelty to the children of Pedakondji Village in Togo.

We often underestimate the importance of community. Poverty and even the occasional hunger may be cruel realities for these children in the remote farming village of Hlande in Togo, but the safety and love they receive as members of a larger community is something our children in the developed world often lack during their formative years.

Not everybody is paying attention during a traditional Zangbeto ceremony and dance in the Hlande Village in Togo.

Zangbetos twirl like dervishes across the village square. Believed to be "piloted" by invisible powers which can transform themselves into puppets, statues or live animals, the Zangbetos uphold the honored vodun (voodoo) tradition as the "guardians of the night". Roaming the village streets in the dark, they hunt down evil spirits, witches and thieves.

Hlande Village, South Togo

Not unlike a visit to the Santa Claus parade, parents are amused and children are in awe: the Zangbeto's dance and magic seem to enthrall the kids and fill them with mystery and bewilderment.

Hlande Village, South Togo

Village drummers and singers perform while the Zangbetos spin around and around until they enter a trance-like state. This state supposedly gives the Zangbetos super-natural powers.

Hlande Village, South Togo

The haystack costume is lifted and ta-ta: the person (?) inside the Zangbeto costume is transformed into a banana-eating animal skull with moving jaws.

Hlande Village, South Togo

Each Zangbeto haystack costume is "equipped" with an ornate mask.

Hlande Village, South Togo

Hlande Village, Togo

Hlande Village, Togo

Hlande Village, Togo

Cocoa beans are drying in the sun by the side of the road.

Near Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana

Near Kakum National Park, Ghana

Local women sell fruit, bread, water and corn to waiting motorists at a police road block near Sekondi-Tokoradi in South Ghana.

Swerving straight into oncoming rush hour traffic this police motorcyclist risks his life to get us back to the ship on time. I have never before seen such riding skill!

Near Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana

Fishermen return to harbor in the early morning hours. Abidjan, Ivory Coast. West African fishing boats have the outboard motor attached to the side of the boat.

A voodoo dancer with a warthog mask in the port of Abidjan, Ivory Coast.

As a Roman Catholic cathedral, this church was consecrated after 5 years of construction by Pope John Paul II in 1985. Considered the second largest cathedral in Africa, St Paul's cathedral can seat 3,500 (plus 1,500 standing) worshippers. The cost of construction was US $ 12 million.

Watering a vegetable plot on the outskirts of the capital city of Abidjan, Ivory Coast.

Contemplating life among trash on the Atlantic coast beach near Grand Bassam, Ivory Coast.  

Vendors of art, crafts and souvenirs line the property fence of a luxury hotel in Grand Bassam, Ivory Coast.

The beaches of Ivory Coast are spectacular and have huge tourist potential. Unfortunately, investment dollars, skills and infrastructure are lacking to attract tourists.

Vendors line the fence of a luxury hotel, waiting for customers to spend money.

A dancer in a village of Niaga near Dakar, Senegal is showing off his spectacular make-up job and costume.

Goats roam freely through the street market in the village of Niaga near Senegal's capital city of Dakar.

Salt diggers in Pink Lake near Dakar, Senegal extract salt from the bottom of the lake. Piles of salt ready for bagging and shipping can be seen in the foreground.

A "salt digger" in Pink Lake near Dakar, Senegal takes his full boat to shore where the salt is unloaded, stored and eventually bagged before being shipped for export. Salt diggers work chest-deep in the water for up to 7 hours per day.

With a shortage of flat building sites, lots for new houses are carved into the mountains.

Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands 

The salt from Pink Lake near Dakar, Senegal is bagged manually and loaded onto trucks for shipment.

The island of Sao Vicente thrived before the opening of the Suez Canal. All marine traffic heading for the orient had to pass Cape Verde. The islands were a convenient stopover for supplies and fuel. Abandoned houses and ruins in the hills of Sao Vicente are silent reminders of a much busier time.

The road along the coastline between the villages of Calhau and Baia Das Gatas on Sao Vicente Island, Cape Verde is spectacular with breathtaking view points at every turn.

Emission controls are a low priority in Senegal.

Baia Das Gatas, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands

North-east coast of Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands

The view towards the fishing village of Baia Das Gatas from the top of Monte Verde.

Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands

The view of the coastline between the villages of Baia Das Gatas and Calhau from the top of Monte Verde.

Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands

Mindelo, Sao Vicente Island, Cape Verde

Mindelo is a port city in the northern part of Sao Vicente Island. 93% of the island's population live in Mindelo.

Cape Verde Islands

The sight of foreigners sparks enthusiasm among the children of this small island village in the river Nile.

Nile River, Egypt

Baking bread in a narrow alley, Egyptian style.

Aswan, Egypt

Where have all the tourists gone?

Pyramids of Giza, Egypt

Meditating between the ancient paws of the Sphynx is a very special way to start the day.

Giza Plateau, Egypt

Apartment Building in Alexandria, Egypt