Take a Second Look

The tiny island nation of Sao Tome & Principe only receives about 4,000 visitors per year. White folks are a novelty and closely checked out.

Sao Tome & Principe

In the tiny island nation of Sao Tome & Principe, 41.5 % of the population is under age 14. There is no shortage of playmates in this tropical paradise! How can you live a joyful life in a country with a GDP of US $1,800 per capita (Canada: US $52,270)? Just ask these two!

The people of Sao Tome & Principe win my "Friendliest People Award". Hands down!

Homes in Sao Tome are small and families are big. Because of the tropical climate, much of a family's life and interaction happens outside.

Sao Tome & Principe

Sao Tome & Principe

The beautiful shoreline of the volcanic island of Sao Tome. With a mere 200,000 inhabitants, the island nation of Sao Tome & Principe is the second smallest country (after Zanzibar) in Africa.

An impromptu and improvised dance, singing and drumming session by the side of the road is good way to end the day.

Dos Angolares, Sao Tome & Principe

Community life in the tiny fishing village of Ribeira Afonso happens in the streets.

Sao Tome & Principe

Local women washing clothes in the river and drying shirts, pants and towels on the rocks. It is a multi-generational affair.

Sao Tome & Principe

Actually, compared to other jobs, washing clothes in the river is not bad when it is close to 40 degr C outside. She'll be fine as long as she has her toothbrush and cellphone (in her pocket) nearby.

Sao Tome & Principe

Embedded in the cacao fruit and surrounded by a white fleshy substance are the cacao beans. They are removed from the shell, separated from the flesh, fermented, dried and sorted by hand before being filled into the sacks for shipment.

Sao Tome & Principe

Cacao is Sao Tome's main economic engine. Grown on extremely fertile volcanic soil, it is considered to be the highest quality cacao in the world. Main export partner of this precious bean is Belgium. As I am chewing on a piece of chocolate, I feel good about supporting this vital business - the sacrifices we make...

Sao Tome & Principe

The young people of Sao Tome do not shy away from the camera.

Sao Tome & Principe

A manor house on a deserted coffee plantation stands forlorn on the slopes of the volcano Pico De Sao Tome. Built during colonial times, when Sao Tome & Principe was under Portuguese rule, the house is slowly falling victim to the humid and hot tropical climate.

Pico De Sao Tome, Sao Tome & Principe

When completed, Angola's new neoclassicist parliament building will have cost US $200 million. Angola has 220 members of parliament, 81 of which are women. The impressive complex has parking space for 503 vehicles. Not bad for one of the poorest countries on earth.

This beautiful painting of a local artist depicting two Ovimbundu women and the iconic boabab tree romanticizes life in the Angolan countryside. The reality of subsistence living in rural Angola, however, is very different.

Children play in front of their home in an abandoned boat. Poverty is severe in the Angolan countryside. The average income of an Angolan is US $2.00 per day.

Near Rio Cuanza south of Luanda, Angola

Eroding sandstone cliffs make for a dramatic landscape scene along Angola's Atlantic coast shoreline. A deserted land void of people and wildlife for vast areas in the country is the consequence of heavy landmine contamination. An estimated 10 million landmines still litter the beautiful countryside where nobody dares to walk or work the land.

South of Luanda, Angola

Near Rio Cuanza south of Luanda, Angola

Not far from the bustling streets and the high rise buildings of Angola's capital city of Luanda, this man catches fish in a polluted lagoon. 

There is a building boom going on in Luanda, Angola's capital city of 4 million. Funded by oil revenue and Chinese investments, the new construction projects do not seem to help the local work force. The Chinese bring their own laborers to Angola. Housed in squalor, the Chinese migrant laborers have a reputation for working fast with minimum consideration for safety and quality.

Refurbished from Portuguese colonial times, the State Bank of Angola is a beautiful and imposing structure.

Luanda, Angola

Too often, sidewalks are impassable because of piled up trash and garbage. This photo was taken on the outskirts of Luanda, Angola's capital city.

Scene of the lagoon with fishing boats in Luanda, Angola.

Driving on dried up river beds through the moonscape of the Namib Desert.

Near Walvis Bay, Namibia

This is one of the oldest plants on earth. Estimated to be around 1,500 years old, the Welwitschia is remarkably adapted to grow in the dry, hot and harsh climate of the Namib desert in Namibia. Welwitschia is a monotypic gymnosperm, requiring a small red beetle to run back and forth between the male and female plants to facilitate pollination. The oldest Welwitschia found in the desert is 2,500 years old.

Near Walvis Bay, Namibia

This young sea lion seems to enjoy surfing in the wake of a passing boat.

Walvis Bay, Namibia

This is the hard way to climb the tallest sand dune in the world.

Walvis Bay, Namibia

A greater flamingo in Walvis Bay, Namibia.

From part way up Dune 7, the tallest sand dune in the world, the view reveals nothing but sand, sand and more sand.

Near Walvis Bay, Namibia

Floating drums in Walvis Bay, Namibia, are a good place to grow oysters - and to rest from an exhausting swim.

Namib Desert, near Walvis Bay, Namibia

Lesser flamingos in Walvis Bay, Namibia

Large parts of the Namib Desert in Namibia could easily be mistaken for a moon landscape. Of course, my being there and the gravel road would be difficult to explain...

In the middle of Walvis Bay, ships await their inevitable destruction by welding torch. This ship is scheduled for salvage operation in November 2016. In the meantime, someone has to stay on the ship to make sure it stays afloat. I hope he's got lots of books on board...

Walvis Bay in Namibia is one of the best places in the world to observe flamingos. The greater flamingo is the largest of the species. It has whitish pink plumage and a pink beak with a black tip. The smaller bird with a black beak in the middle of the flock is a lesser flamingo. 

Rose quartz is clearly visible at the surface in the moonscape of the Namib Desert, Namibia.

Lichens growing on rocks in the Namib Desert are hard and dark when dry and green and soft when the fog rolls in from the Atlantic Ocean. The lichens take all the moisture they need from the fog. These sensitive lichens are threatened by prospectors and tourists driving their four-wheel drive cars across the desert landscape. In this harsh environment the lichen grow no more than 1 mm (0.039 in) per year.

Namib Desert near Walvis Bay, Namibia

Walvis Bay, Namibia

With a wingspan of close to 3.60 m (11 ft), the great white pelican is second in size only to the great albatros. Due to overfishing, the pelican has to fly long distances in search of food.

Walvis Bay, Namibia

The social weaver (Philetairus socius) is known for its unusually large nests. No other bird builds anything bigger. At home in Namibia, South Africa and Botswana, the social weaver makes its home in areas where stiff grasses are available for nesting material. Nests can accommodate several generations at the same time, they are divided into compartments which each containing a breeding pair and young. Caring for the young is a community affairs. Everybody helps out. Sadly, the nests are prone to predation by snakes. Sometimes, all eggs in the nest are wiped out at the same time. Some nests have been found to be over 100 years old. This nest contains approximately 150 sociable weavers.

Klein Aus Vista, Namibia

Ants have a wonderfully cooperative relationship with acacia trees. Ants will attack and bite any animal trying to eat the acacia's leaves. But there are times, when the ants are not wanted: during flowering when the tree tries to attract pollinators. That's why, during flowering, the acacia tree produces nectar for the ants along the branches, keeping them away from the blooms. They also produce a scent that acts as an ant repellant. The repellant production eases when the flower has been visited by pollinators. What a smart plant! 

About 100 years ago, the Garub Railway Station played a big role during the diamond rush. Now a shadow of its former self, the station provides welcome shade to the wild horses of the Namib.

Garub, Namibia

If these walls could tell a story! The ghost town of Kolmanskop in Namibia is gradually taken over by the sands of the Namib Desert. Similar to the gold rush towns in Alaska and the Yukon, Kolmanskop attracted many fortune seekers during the diamond rush period. Diamond mining began with the discovery of a precious stone by the railway worker Zacharias Lewala on April 14th, 1908. Four million carats were mined in this area until production was interrupted by World War I when the Germans lost German South West Africa to the South Africans.

Kolmanskop, Namibia

The oryx is a big antelope that can survive in the driest and hottest climates in Africa. Its body has adapted well to these harsh conditions and allows the oryx to survive without water for days or even weeks.

Garub, Namibia

A lone oryx walks across the Namib Desert.

Klein Aus, Namibia

"Church Path" is the direct translation for this street sign. Namibia, formerly German South-West Africa, still retains some of its German characteristics even 100 years after Germany lost WWI and South Africa took over this beautiful country. I am surprised to see many German names throughout the country. In fact, the town of Swakopmund, just north of Luederitz, only allows German architectural style for new construction projects in town. Often, after independence has been achieved, countries like to erase all evidence of colonialization.

Luederitz, Namibia

The "Felsenkirche" in Luederitz, Namibia, was built on the highest point in town. It opened its doors in 1912. Albert Bause, the carpenter who built the church steeple, placed a metal ball on the very top of the church tower. It still contains an issue of the "Luederitzbuchter" newspaper dated June 16, 1912 as well as a copy of the minutes from the latest town council meeting.

Luederitz, Namibia  

The beautiful stained glass windows in the "Felsenkirche" in Luederitz, Namibia, include an image of Martin Luther.

Luederitz, Namibia

Horses brought to the Namib around 100 years ago have survived in the hot and dry climate of the Namib Desert with some help of an artificial watering hole. This picture, however, does not show the famous wild horses of the Namib. While the picture was taken in the same area where the wild horses roam, these two are domesticated. The herds of wild horses do not include white horses.

Klein Aus, Namibia

I am posing for the picture, not resting!

(Photo courtesy of Ashley Vann)

Almost 10 km (6 mi) offshore from Cape Town, South Africa, lies tiny Robben Island in the Atlantic Ocean. A place of banishment for lepers, murderers and political prisoners through the centuries, it was also home to the infamous maximum security prison where Nelson Mandela spent 18 of his 27 years of incarceration. To the left is 669 m (2,200 ft) high Lions Head with Sea Point, which is part of Cape Town, below. The picture was taken from Table Mountain.

The term "Kwa" can be translated to "belongs to". The Zulu people are an African tribe and "Natal" is Portuguese for Christmas. (The Portuguese sailors reached the Bay near Durban on Christmas Day of 1497.)

The name "KwaZulu-Natal was given to this part of South Africa following the democratic elections in 1994.

Two Zulu children play in the yard of their home.

Driving through the South African province of KwaZulu-Natal is both boring and fascinating. From the road and as far as the eye can see - eucalyptus trees. Thousands of straight rows that must amount to millions of trees, planted for the paper and pulp industry of the country, make for a monotonous drive through the countryside.

This maximum security prison on Robben Island, just off the coast from Cape Town, South Africa was the location where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated from 1963 to 1982. Built by the prisoners themselves from stones quarried on the island, the prisoners had no running water, no access to toilets and no beds.

Robben Island, Cape Town, South Africa

The fever tree (Vachellia xanthophloea) is native to eastern and southern Africa. It is fast growing, beautiful and one of very few tree species that photosynthesize through the bark. The tree got its name from its tendency to grow in swampy areas, areas that are prone to mosquitoes and malarial fever. Early European explorers of Africa associated the tree with malaria.

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa

Wearing traditional henna face paint while selling souvenirs near the Lokobe Nature Reserve, this woman on the island of Nosy Be in Madagascar allowed me to take her photograph. The dignity and pride in her expression attracted my attention. Desperately poor, close to 90% of the people of Madagascar earn $2.00 per day. Widespread corruption keeps much of the country's population in perpetual poverty.

In the Company Gardens of Cape Town stands the beautiful Delville Wood Memorial. Sculpted by Herbert Baker and unveiled in 1930, it stands in dedication to the South Africans who have died in the Great Wars.

Table Mountain is in the background.

In 1963, Nelson Mandela, together with 7 other ANC (African National Congress) leaders, were sentenced to forced labour and life in prison on Robben Island. (The term "Robben" is Dutch for "seals".) Pictured is the lime quarry where Mandela and his fellow prisoners worked for many years. While working in the quarry, the prisoners were observed by guards from the tower. The cave was used as a toilet and a place of communication. The prisoners left messages for each other by writing words on the floor of the cave.

Cape Town is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world. In this picture from the top of Table Mountain, downtown, the soccer stadium, the port and Table Bay are clearly visible. Metro Cape Town has a population of 3.7 million.

A clear view like this from Table Mountain (TM) is a rarity. Table Mountain has a reputation for being hidden among clouds. Some tourists visit Cape Town several times before actually being able to see the top of the mountain. The clouds covering TM are often referred to as the "table cloth". In 2011 TM was voted one of The New 7 Wonders Of Nature.

This view is from the top of TM south across the 12 Apostles towards The Cape of Good Hope. The Atlantic Ocean is to the right.

As they have done for centuries, Dhow merchant vessels are still taking their products across the Indian Ocean. Here, in the Dhow harbor in Zanzibar City, workers load oil and dried fish destined for Dar Es Salaam, 95 miles away. Sailing all night, the Dhow will arrive in the morning.

I sensed a quiet desperation among the locals on the island of Nosy Be in Madagascar. While everybody appeared well nourished, the poverty among the population was severe. This young man was one of many from the local town of Hell Ville to come to the ship in his canoe trying to sell fruit to passengers and crew. 

Two local girls watch the beach action from a safe distance.

Nosy Be, Madagascar

Once a proud possession of the Sultanate of Oman, Stone Town in Zanzibar played an important role in the Indian Ocean marine trade during the 17th and 18th centuries. The slave trade played a particularly tragic role in this archipelago, turning Zanzibar into a living hell. Physical evidence of slave auctions and dungeons where slaves were held while awaiting transport to Brazil are still on display as a warning for future generations. Now, the labyrinth of narrow streets is filled with the exotic noise of bargaining, Muslim women in burqas out on a shopping excursion, the overwhelming smell of fish in the stifling air, the jostling for space in the crowded alleys and the blaring of loud speakers at every street corner. But for the most part, time has stood still in Stone Town, now a UN World Heritage Site.

Drummers greet us at the port of Mombasa.

A local couple and a merchant at the fish market of Stone Town, Zanzibar City, Tanzania.

Determined to keep her dance troupe in line, this young women gives verbal instructions to a group of young girls performing for tourists.

Nosy Be, Madagascar

With a sword fish strapped to the roof, this mini bus leaves the Zanzibar market. The market is located in Stonetown, a World Heritage Site in Zanzibar City, Tanzania.

Taking his dinner home, this man leaves the fish market of Stone Town, Zanzibar City while dragging a tuna fish across the pavement.

The Likoni Ferry, loaded with commuters, is leaving the mainland on its way to Mombasa Island. Mombasa, Kenya's second largest city (after the capital city of Nairobi), has an estimated population of 1.5 million. 

The market is Zanzibar City is as exotic as the name. There are obnoxious smells, colourful spices, loud vendors, a maze of ancient streets, fish covered with thousands of flies and cell phones galore. What more would you want?

Against the dark backdrop of forested mountains on the island of Mahe, the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple, the only place of worship for the Tamil Sri Lankan diaspora of Hindu faith in the Seychelles, shines as a prominent landmark in the capital of Victoria.

The meat market of Stone Town in Zanzibar City, Tanzania belongs to the flies. Here, locals mingle and bargain for their dinner. You can’t be too squeamish about your food at a place like this. The phrase “less than sanitary” comes to mind…  

Dramatic afternoon lighting contours the Hindu temple in Victoria, the capital city of the Seychelles.

Deserted beaches with white sand and turquoise waters are not the only attraction at the Seychelles Islands in the Indian Ocean. Sea bird colonies, turtles, good food and friendly people make this archipelago a unique holiday destination.

Piled high along the sidewalks are all kinds of merchandize. From cell phone accessories to underwear to the proverbial kitchen sink, you can find everything in the Zanzibar Market.

The Giant Tortoises on the Aldabra atoll in the Seychelles are the longest living animals on earth. They can get as old as 250 years. Tortoises have no teeth; their mouth are like beaks. With more than 100,000 giant tortoises living on the atoll, Aldabra features the greatest reptile biomass found anywhere.

The world-wide population of the surreal looking Fairy Tern is threatened and classified as "vulnerable". On Aride Island in the Seychelles they are still numerous. The Fairy Tern is a likable bird: the parents share in the incubation of eggs and the care for the chicks.

Sitting on a beautiful beach on Aride Island in the Seychelles, my wife Kit contemplates algal blooms in the ocean and the smell of dead fish.

At home on the Aldabra atoll in the Seychelles Islands, this giant tortoise is one of two giant tortoise species in the world. Because of their enormous weight (adult males can weigh up to 250 kg (550 lbs), this tortoise species has developed flat elephantine feet to support it's hefty body mass.

Heavy surf on the shores of Aride Island, Seychelles Islands archipelago, makes for wet landings in a Zodiac.

The Seychelles fruit bat or Seychelles flying foxes are enormous in size. Flying overhead with a wingspan of 1.50 m (4'11") the fruit bat cannot be missed. The bats belong to the suborder of megabats, which are the largest bats on earth. They do not have echolocation but use their smell and eyesight to avoid crashing into trees at night. Fruit bats in the Seychelles eat pollen, nectar, blossoms, and fruit. They play an important role in the dispersal of trees. Fruit bats are not endangered and are eaten curried as a delicacy by the local population... yumm!  

Small in size but hugely important, Aride Island is a nature reserve and home to rare sea birds and turtles. As an almost undisturbed ecosystem, Aride's wildlife does not fear humans. The island's current population of 8 consists of research scientists, volunteers and the island manager.

The Seychelles Magpie-Robin is one of the rarest birds on earth. Only 240 exist in the world and only 11 on Aride Island, the northernmost granite island in the Seychelles Islands archipelago. Collared and heavily monitored, the Magpie-Robin is a real celebrity.

At the end of the day, only a few fish are left for purchase at the open air market in Victoria. 

Like a white snowball on a dark background, this white-tailed tropicbird chick is not too concerned about being seen. Tropicbirds lay their eggs in protected spots on the ground in tropical forests. Not many predators bother these birds. On the endangered list, they are of "least concern".

This tanker is in the Gulf of Eden, a location designated in the maritime world as a "high risk area" (HRA) where pirate attacks are common. As part of an emergency pirate drill, the ballast tanks are emptied over the side of the ship. In a pirate attack, the huge volume of water pouring over the side of the ship is meant to deter the pirates and prevent them from boarding.

The landscape of the KwaZulu-Natal region of South Africa is characterized by rolling hills and cultivated fields. Rhinos and ostriches are in the foreground.

Tala Game Reserve, Durban, South Africa